Nothing hot but plenty of charcuterie, cheese and inventive salads. This minuscule wine bar opens at 4 p.m., when the hungry can pop in for bites prepared by Septime’s kitchen. “And the vibrant scene draws a diverse crowd from all over Paris.”įirst stop: Septime La Cave, around the corner from the highly regarded restaurant Septime. “It’s all happening on the Right Bank these days,” my old friend Luis told me. Now even more wine bars and restaurants have opened in the 11th and 12th arrondissements. But if you’re just one or two, you can often find a seat at the bar.įour years before, the 11th and 12th arrondissements were just heating up, and I found my way to Le Verre Volé and incredibly minuscule Vivant. It’s come early or late if you want to get a seat add a third or a fourth to your party and you may wait even longer for a table. And many, anchors on their street or block, are about the size of a studio apartment. Many of this latest wave are in the same young, diverse neighborhood the terrorists hit to such devastating effect in November, two weeks after my visit. Wine bars are as integral to the fabric of Paris as cafes and bistros, convivial places to pop in for a glass of wine or a conversation. I had been collecting addresses from winemakers I had visited and was eager to check out the new crop of bars à vin and look in on a couple of old favorites. After a week in the Beaujolais countryside drinking only cru Beaujolais, Paris and its free-spirited and eclectic wine bars beckoned.
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